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  • Taste the Wedge (ice climbing)

Taste the Wedge (ice climbing)

  • 25 January 2025
  • 26 January 2025
  • Kananaskis - Tasting Fear and Wedge Smear

Registration


Register

Organizer: Brandon Walker, John Killan

Activity Type: Ice Climbing


Difficulty Rating: Intermediate

Itinerary: 

Sometime between now and Thursday Jan 23: Pub night for trip participants to get together and discuss the trip, hazards and hazard management, and just generally have a good time. A Whatsapp group will also be created for sharing information and for discussion prior to the trip.

Friday Jan 24: Travel to HI Kananaskis and check in to Hostel (unfortunately the male and female participants will be housed in gender specific dorms).

Saturday Jan 25: Leave hostel approximately 6:45-7:00am to arrive at Galatea parking lot shortly after 7:00am. Early start is critical because Tasting Fear can only support 2-3 ropes so we need to arrive first to avoid getting scooped. Prepare for a 1 hr approach to the crag. A beacon check will be performed as we start our approach. We will climb steep ice for the day and exfil with enough time to reach the parking lot during daylight.

Sunday Jan 26: Leave hostel approximately 6:45-7:00am to arrive at Galatea parking lot shortly after 7:00am. Early start is critical because Wedge Smear can only support 3-4 ropes so we need to arrive first to avoid getting scooped. Prepare for a 40 min approach to the crag with some steep uphill near the end of the approach. We will climb a variety of low angle to steep ice (and possibly 1-2 mixed lines depending on the ice formation) and will exfil when the group is tired and ready to depart. Wedge Smear is easier climbing and more appropriate for the second day.

Prerequisites / Courses Required: Must be able to top rope belay and have some ice climbing experience. Tasting Fear is a steep ice climb which may be challenging for beginners. If you do not know the trip coordinators, please contact them to discuss belay capabilities. The approach for Tasting Fear is approximately 1hr long, so please ensure that you come equipped with properly fitting boots and be prepared to manage blisters. Accommodations are pre-arranged at HI Kananaskis and are mandatory for this trip (to ensure that we get to the crag first since we have a large group, all participants must pay $85 to the trip coordinator to register for the trip).

Required items to bring: Helmet, Harness, Ice tools, Mountaineering/Ice climbing boots with appropriate ice climbing crampons. A headlamp (with full charge/spare batteries) will be required because some travel in the dark may be required. An avalanche beacon is required for all participants, and AST1/probe/shovel will be required for half of the trip participants. Beacons may be available through the club (but don't quote me). Please contact the trip coordinators if you do not have a beacon. Tasting Fear also has open water and the ice often has wet sections, so bring spare gloves and socks. Hand warmer packs and waterproof boots are recommended). Be prepared for long approach (approx. 1 hr) and mountain weather.

As per club guidelines, participants are responsible for arranging their own transportation. Accommodations are pre-arranged and payment must be made to register for the trip.

Please refer to the GMMC Policies regarding Animals, Carpooling, Accommodation, and Cancellation.

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